Another look at perfection is the 350-case cuvée of 2014 Sugarloaf Mountain Proprietary Red. This is a Cheval Blanc-like blend of 57% Cabernet Franc and 43% Merlot aged in Gamba and Darnajou barrels. I don’t know anyone making wine from this particular rockpile in the southeastern hillsides of Napa, but Bevan has certainly found an unreal terroir to exploit. Unbelievable aromatics – going the full spectrum of red, blue and black fruits to spring flowers to earthy charcoal embers and incense – are followed by a wine of magnificent intensity, fabulous purity and full-bodied, almost unctuous, texture. Yet, the wine has the balance of a world-class ballerina. This is deep, rich, showing incredibly well already, and therefore hard to resist. It could last for 20+ years in a cold cellar, but why wait?